2011年8月25日 星期四

【大藍礁】這支酒和魚很合

 
This Wine Goes Well With Fish




BRILLIANT ideas sometimes arise out of pure necessity. Consider Piero Lugano, 63, the suntanned artist-turned-wine-merchant who opened a shop called Bisson in this town on the Italian Riviera in 1978.

有時候,酷炫的點子真的只是應需要而生罷了。不然看看63歲的Piero Lugano,這位有著古銅色皮膚、由藝術家搖身一變而成的酒商,在義大利維耶拉(Italian Riviera,以熱納亞為中心的地中海沿岸地帶)這個叫Chivari的小城開了名叫Bisson的酒店。

Not content merely to sell wine, he soon began making it. Ten years ago he decided to try producing sparkling wine from indigenous varieties grown in vineyards overlooking the Golfo Paradiso on the Mediterranean.

因為不滿足於只是賣酒,他很快就開始自已釀起酒來。十年前他決定試著採用種植在俯看著地中海"天堂灣"的葡萄園中的在地品種來釀造氣泡酒。

But he immediately encountered a problem: there was simply no space in his already cramped shop and winery to carry out the aging required to make a bottle-fermented sparkling wine in the classic method of Champagne. Then, as he recalled recently, “a light bulb went on in my head: I thought, why not put the wine under the sea?”

但他立刻面臨了一個問題:他那早就擁擠不堪的酒莊與鋪子裡,根本沒有空間提供白酒在瓶中做傳統香檳釀造法所要求的二次醱酵。「然後」他最近在接受訪時回憶道:「我腦海裡有一個燈泡忽然點亮了起來,我想:為什麼不乾脆把他們放海裡呢?」

This might seem logical to someone like Mr. Lugano who has long struggled to reconcile his twin passions for vine and sea. To most everyone else, the idea of making wine underwater might seem a bit unusual.

對 Lugano 先生這樣一位長久以來勉力不懈地想調合其對釀酒與海洋的熱情的人來說,這似乎是個理所當然的辦法,至於對其他多
數人而言,在海底釀酒這點子恐怕就顯得有些不尋常了。

But Mr. Lugano makes an interesting argument: “It’s better than even the best underground cellar, especially for sparkling wine. The temperature is perfect, there’s no light, the water prevents even the slightest bit of air from getting in, and the constant counterpressure keeps the bubbles bubbly. Moreover, the underwater currents act like a crib, gently rocking the bottles and keeping the lees moving through the wine.” (The lees refer to yeast particles.)

然而,Lugano先生有個很有趣的論點:「這甚至比最好的地下酒窖還棒啊,尤其是對氣泡酒而言。溫度完美、沒有光害、水完全阻絕了絲毫的空氣進入瓶中,而水壓讓瓶中保持恆定的壓力,所以氣泡絕不會散逸。還有,海底的洋流可以像嬰兒床一樣作用在瓶子上,可以輕柔地搖晃他們,讓酵母顆粒慢慢流經整瓶酒。」(譯按:我不確定這指的是不是是說讓洋流取代傳統釀造香檳所需要的轉瓶的動作,似乎不是,或許只是讓酵母與酒均勻混合而后。總之,香檳必須保持在高壓以免珍貴的氣泡逸失,因此沒辦法倒出來過濾,只能在釀造的過程中不時以人工旋轉、傾斜瓶身,以便最後直接從瓶口取出死去的酵母與殘渣沈澱。)

It’s quite a creative solution to a space problem. But Italy is infamous for its labyrinthine bureaucracy. And the place he wanted to put the wine happened to be in the tightly controlled waters of a national marine preserve, the Area Marina Protetta di Portofino. So the odds would seem overwhelmingly against such a project.

這一個克服空間限制的辦法的確相當有創意,但卻得面對義大利那惡名昭彰,令人宛如置身迷宮般的官僚系統。而他打算放置這些氣泡酒的海域不巧正為於受到嚴格限制的海洋保護區,所以這個計畫要能成案的機會看來實在渺茫得緊。

Undaunted, Mr. Lugano ran the idea by a friend-with-a-friend at the Agriculture Ministry in Rome. Much to his surprise, his friend called back a week later; not only was it possible, the ministry thought it was a very cool idea. The next and most crucial step was to approach the local authorities.

但 Lugano 桑沒被嚇到,他輾轉把這點子送到位在羅馬的農業部以打探當局口風,大出他意料之外的,他的友人在一週之後就回電,告訴他不僅有機會實現,農業部還認為這是個很酷的點子。接下來,且更重要的,就是向當地政府叩關了。

In the winter of 2008, Mr. Lugano pitched his idea to a group at the Area Marina Protetta di Portofino that included the director, Giorgio Fanciulli, and a number of scientific advisers from the University of Genoa. “My first reaction,” Dr. Fanciulli said recently, “was: ‘No way! Our job is to prevent people from putting things in these waters, not help them.’

2008年冬天,Lugano 先生第一次向一群Portofino海域保育委員提出他的想法,其中包括主委Giorgio Fanciulli以及多位來自熱納亞大學的科學諮詢委員。「我的第一個反應」Fanciulli博士說:「是"免肖想"!我們的工作正是阻止人們把東西投到這片海域,可不是幫助他們反其道而行。」

“But when we discussed it in private, the young scientists were very excited. It would have zero impact on the fragile ecosystem and demonstrate our philosophy of a positive synergy between man and nature. We also thought it might promote our park and raise awareness of the need to protect our marine resources. I was convinced.”

「但當我們私下討論的時候,那些年輕的科學家們卻顯得非常興奮。這麼做對脆弱的生態系的衝擊其實是零,還能替我們天人合一的哲學作正面的示範。我們也考慮到,如此一來或許還可以為國家公園作宣傳,並且喚起人們保育海洋資源的意識。我被說服了。」

The scientists did research to ensure no environmental impact and determine the ideal site to place the wine. On May 20, 2009, 6,500 bottles of wine from the 2008 vintage of Bianchetta and Vermentino grapes, made without adding sugar, in the traditional method known as pas dosè, were put in noncorrosive stainless-steel cages and lowered about 200 feet below the sea at a spot called Cala degli Inglesi.

這群科學家們於是做了調查,確保在海底釀酒不會對環境造成衝擊,並且選定了一處理想地點以儲放這些釀造中的酒。2009年5月20日,6500瓶用 Bianchetta 與 Vermentino葡萄、依傳統pas dosè方式不加糖釀造的2008年份新酒被放置在不受海水腐蝕不銹鋼籠中,被垂吊至海平面下200英呎一個名為Cala degli Inglesi的地點。

That the project had come this far was an amazing accomplishment, but would it be successful? “It was a big risk,” Mr. Lugano said. “No one had done this before, so we really didn’t know what would happen.”

這個計畫進行到此地步,已經算是夠令人讚嘆的成就了,但那真會成功嗎?「這是個大冒險] Lugano先生說:「以前從沒人這麼做過,所以那時我們真不知道接下去會發生什麼事。」

When they went to retrieve the wine 13 months later, they found the bottles intact but transformed. Far from having a negative impact on the underwater environment, it was the sea that had had an impact on the bottles.

13個月之後,正當要取回這批酒時,他們發現瓶子全都完好無損,但卻產生某些變化。倒不是這批酒對海底環境造成了什麼負面衝擊---剛好相反,是海洋對這6500瓶酒造成了影響。

“When we began to lift the cages,” Mr. Lugano said, “all kinds of sea creatures came rushing out. Some remained.” The bottles were covered with algae, seaweed and barnacles, all of it carefully cleaned, dried and preserved on the bottle in a plastic sheath. (Some even had oysters, shrimp and starfish attached to them.)
「當我們開始吊起這些籠子時」Lugano先生說「各種各洋的海中生物被嚇得四散逃逸,但也有些留了下來。這些瓶子上覆滿了海藻、昆布以及籐壺(譯按:謝謝挖樹根小天王幫忙翻這個專有名辭),他們被仔細地清洗、風乾且保留在瓶身上,用膠膜封存起來。(有些瓶身上甚至附著著蠔、蝦或海星)


Lugano 先生與他的Abissi,看看那瓶子,就算酒很爛,買櫝還珠,我也想收藏一瓶啊



More important, when the first bottle of the wine (christened Abissi, meaning depths in Italian) was opened for a celebratory toast, Mr. Lugano was, as he put it, “quite pleased.”

更重的是,當第一瓶被命名為Abissi (義大利文「深度」)的此酒被開來乾杯慶祝這一切時,Lugano先生,照他自己的話說,「相當開心啊!」。

It’s easy to see why. When first poured, the bubbles come rushing up to the surface of the glass like sea foam at high tide, but then quickly relax into a fine perlage. The color is pale golden-yellow with greenish reflections, while the aroma suggests caramelized lemon peel and dried flower petals with hints of baked apple and allspice. On the palate it is surprisingly soft, leading into ripe, almost sweet, white peach followed by bracing acidity and a dry mineral finish.

理由顯而易見。酒倒入杯中的那一剎那,氣泡像漲潮的海水奔涌到表面,形成細密的浮沫,再迅速地變成細密的氣泡。酒色呈淺淺的金黃色又微帶青綠光芒,至於香氣則包含了糖漬檸檬皮、乾燥的花瓣以及少許烤蘋果和眾香子(allspice)的味道。口感意外地輕柔熟軟,宛如甜美的白桃,最後以清爽的酸味與礦石味收尾。

This winter, the second edition of Abissi, made from the 2009 vintage and brought up from the sea on July 2, 2011, will be available in America for the first time through Bisson’s importer, Neil Rosenthal. (It has not been determined how many bottles will come to the United States or what the price will be.)

今年冬天,用2009年採收的葡萄釀造且在2011年7月2號從海中回收的第二版Abissi將頭一次,經由Bisson's 的進口商Neil Rosenthal,在美國上市。(數量與零售價格則未定)

Though bottle-fermented in the classic manner, Abissi should not be compared to Champagne. This is a typical Ligurian wine — lean, crisply acidic, minerally, almost salty — made of local varieties from vineyards conditioned by their proximity to the sea.

雖然是以傳統手法在瓶中經二次醱酵而成的氣泡酒,Abissi並不宜被拿來與香檳類比。這是一支典型的利古利亞酒,酒体清瘦、酸味犀利、帶著礦石甚至鹽的味道,用當地葡萄做成,而其生長的土壤也深受鄰近海域所影響造就。

In fact, the earth where the vines grow was once under the sea. That this wine undergoes its crucial maturation under water brings the process full circle, giving the concept of terroir an even deeper, aqueous dimension.

事實上,那片葡萄所生長的土地曾是海底的一部份。用這葡萄釀造出來的酒,得以回到大海中進行最關鍵的醱酵以臻成熟,不僅成其生命之圓滿,也令風土(terroir)的概念更顯得汪洋肆恣,深遂迷人。

(最後來看一下影片,有沒有像盧貝松的早期名作「大藍礁」?)


2 則留言:

文文 提到...

天然的尚好。

becco 提到...

我查了一下,第一版的Abissi,義大利網站賣大約37歐元,美國98美元,以噱頭和記念價值來說,還不算太誇張啦。

不過正式上市要賣多少就不知道了。