2011年7月2日 星期六

廚神下凡 (譯)

"A light lunch in Spain"  < 請點這個video

我不知道,我好感動,不管是宣傳或公關或者什麼奇他陽謀,總之每次看 Ferran Adria 講述他的想法、創意和新點子都讓我好激動 (而且他們兩人的法文爛到連我都聽得懂)。

他真的毫無疑問是世上最偉大的廚師、思想家、創造者。就像把紅海分開的摩西,把料理帶到另外一個應許之地,哪怕還有些跟不上的人們忙著要找雨靴才肯前行…但那都絲毫無損於他的識見偉岸。

這篇報導也非常好看 (原文和翻譯在下面)。文章中提到,餐廳的員工餐大多很爛,而Ferran 的新書"The Family Meal"講的就是他們實驗三年的員工餐廳伙食,因為員工就是家人啊,他說。

這食譜每餐(午餐)的成本不超過五美元("like a burger, a bad burger!"),要包含前菜、主菜和甜點,簡單程度必須要能讓兩位資淺廚師在一小時內完成大約75人份,換句話說,這根本是忙碌現代人無暇或無能料理時的恩物,想必也非常適合留學生吧。對了,原來巧克力麵包是西班牙傳統甜食,我在此地的西班牙館子點過,大為驚豔。請務必要試試看,不要懷疑,烤麵包,苦甜巧克力,淋上特級處女橄欖油和海鹽,真的好吃啊!

最後,我完全同意Ferran Adria說的,任何一個想認真做點「簡單料理」的人,廚房裡都應該至少備有些高湯或醬料,或著醃好的一些什麼,像是那個sofrito,不就像是我們的油蔥酥嗎?誰的廚房可以沒有油蔥酥呢!

The Gastronomist Gets Real
By MARK BITTMAN
“No, you don’t understand.” It wasn’t the first time I’d heard those words from Ferran Adrià, the chef and driving force behind El Bulli, the oft-proclaimed world’s greatest restaurant, which he recently announced is going to close in July. In my dozen or so visits with him over the last 10 years in northeastern Spain and in New York, it seemed there was always some point I was missing.

「不是這樣,你不懂啦!」我不是我第一次聽Ferran Adria(以下簡稱FA),這位通常被冠以「世上最偉大餐廳」榮銜,卻將在七月歇業的El Bulli 餐廳的龍頭、舵手,這樣子對我說。在我過去十年來,無論西班牙東北或者紐約市,十數次拜訪他的機會裡,我似乎總是有什麼地方,在FA眼中看來,是搞錯的。

This time, my misunderstanding wasn’t a theoretical point of avant-garde cooking (a term he understandably prefers to the meaningless “molecular gastronomy”). Rather, the disagreement was about cooking at home, something I might actually know more about than he does. My position was that you can’t call a dish “simple” if it requires things like premade stocks, sauces and condiments. His (as best as I could interpret it; we were arguing in French) was that anyone who really wants to cook has to have these things around anyway.

這回,我的「誤會」倒不是在「先鋒料理」---比起無意義的「分子廚藝」,FA對這辭兒滿意多了---的理論徵節上,而是關於在家做菜這件我搞不好比他還行的事兒上(譯註:文章作者Mark Bittman在NYT有一專欄叫minimalist,專門教做簡單美味的家庭烹飪),我們僵持不下。我的立場是,你總不能說需要用到預先熬好的高湯、醬汁或者醬料的菜叫作「簡易料理」吧?而他呢,則堅稱(這是我個人的解讀,因為當時是用法文在爭辯的)一個人真的想做菜的話,無論如何總之是得隨時備有這些東西的。

It wasn’t an academic argument, because we were at his restaurant trying to determine which dishes to prepare from his coming book, “The Family Meal: Home Cooking With Ferran Adrià.” The book is a collection of recipes and menus Adrià has used over the last three years or so when making meals for El Bulli’s staff, and it gave me an excuse to do something I’d never done with him: cook.

這不是什麼學術性的爭辯,因為此刻在他的餐廳,我們正準備決定要從他的新書"El Bulli 外帶全家餐:與Ferran Adria一起製作家庭料理"裡決定要挑什麼菜出來做。這本書總結了過去三年多FA在El Bulli餐廳裡準備員工餐所採用的食譜與菜單,而這,則給了我一個好藉口去做件以前從來沒有和他一同做過的事:煮菜。

Most journalistic visits to El Bulli revolve around listening to Adrià talk about “creativity” (his code word for just about everything that goes on at the restaurant) and how he is misunderstood (“It’s too bad I have to remind people that I believe that the most important thing is taste,” he once commented to me) and about the latest ways he and his team have found to make liquids into solids (and vice versa) and distill flavors to profound intensity levels. My visit — set up in January, for April — was sidetracked by his announcement in the interim that the restaurant would close.

大部份的時候,到 El Bulli 採訪總是圍繞著FA聽他談論創意(他餐廳裡的通關密碼,關於一切的最高指導原則)、他如何為世人誤解(「太糟了,我竟得不斷跟人們提醒我最重視的是"味道"!」,他曾這麼告訴我),以及他和他的團隊最新開發出來將食物從液態變成固態---亦可反其道而行---或是如何將味道提煉至更強烈層次的法門。而我這在一月定案,四月成行的拜訪,卻剛巧因為他中間宣佈將永久關閉餐廳而「岔題」了。

Certainly I was interested in the hubbub around the closing and Adrià’s announcement of the creation of the El Bulli Foundation, a gastronomic think tank he says will open in 2014. But what I really wanted — especially if this was the last opportunity — was to see a little more of the behind-the-scenes El Bulli, the comings and goings of the 80 or so people who work there on any given day. And I wanted to cook real food with Adrià.

當然,我對餐廳即將關門,以及FA宣佈將在2014開幕的料理智庫El Bulli基金會的消息引起的騷動很感興趣。但我真正想要的,尤其在餐廳即將關門之際的最後機會,是一探el Bulli的後台,瞧瞧廚房裡八十多名工作人員們的日常工作情形,還有,我想要和Ferran Adria 一起真正來煮點什麼。

Much of this was driven by my knowledge that Adrià’s own preferences lie in the realm of extremely simple fare. The first time I went out to dinner with him, we polished off a plate of ham — pata negra, the really good Spanish stuff — while he rubbed the fat of each piece on his lips to savor the texture as well as the flavor and, of course, instructed me and everyone else at the table to do the same. In subsequent meals together, in Barcelona and in New York, we dug into dim sum, Korean food and other nonhaute cuisine. On my last three visits, I asked him where to eat in Roses, the nearest real town to El Bulli (and one with a radically upscale clientele for exactly this reason), and he pointed me to two seafood restaurants where the food usually contains no more than impeccable local shellfish, olive oil, salt and occasionally lemon.

這背後的靈感來自於我曉得FA其實最傾心簡單、美味的食物。記得第一次和他出外用餐時,他嗑光了一盤火腿,一種叫pata negra的西班牙好貨,還用嘴唇親吻每一片火腿的肥膘,只為了充份品嚐他們的質地與滋味,當然,他也不忘了要我以及同桌其他人做同樣的動作。接下來好幾次,無論在西班牙或是紐約,我們一起殺去吃飲茶、韓國菜、以及其他金字塔底端的美食(譯註:我們也有去吃過FA品嚐過的博多美肌鍋喔,科科)。在我最後三次的拜訪裡,我曾問他在Roses---一座最接近 El Bulli 的真正城鎮,且因為如此擁有品味高到離譜的飲食消費客層--該上哪用餐?他指點我兩家海鮮餐廳,在那些地方,菜肴通常只包含當地品質絕佳的魚介、橄欖油、鹽,偶爾加上點檸檬而已。

And now he has written a book about making staff meals. Most restaurants of any size serve a staff meal, though it’s traditional rather than required. The people I know who have worked in restaurants say, simply, the meals are usually awful. This is true even in good restaurants; staff meals are seen as an obligation, they’re assigned to the lowest-level cooks and they’re expected to cost nothing. The archetypal meal is made from food that’s left over or about to go bad — or maybe did go bad, but only recently.

如今,他出了一本關於(餐廳)員工餐的書。嗯,無論規模大小,多數餐廳都會提供員工餐飲,不過那比較像基於因循傳統而非實際需求。我所認識在餐廳工作過的人告訴我,那些食物簡單講就是令人不敢恭維至極,哪怕好餐廳也是如此(譯註:不過 French Laundry 的看來還不錯)。員工餐被視為是餐廳的義務,通常被指派給最低階的廚子負責,且被要求以"零成本"製作---多半用餐廳剩下或快壞掉或者已經壞掉只是還不算太久的食材做成。

Even at El Bulli, the staff meals weren’t always fantastic: “The restaurant has always been organized,” Adrià told me through a translator. “But the staff meals? No; usually in a restaurant you always know what your clients are going to eat, but you never know what the staff is going to eat.” He continued, “In Spain, the staff is the family.” So, three years ago, Adrià teamed with Eugeni de Diego, a member of his core team, to rethink what they ate. “We decided,” he said, “to use the same organization for the staff meals as the one we use for clients, and we began planning them a month in advance.”

即使是在El Bulli,員工餐也很難總是稱得上「精采」。「餐廳本身的運作一向照表操課」FA透過翻譯告訴我「至於員工餐呢?門兒都沒有。通常在一間餐廳你總是知道要給顧客吃些什麼,但你無法預期要給員工吃什麼。」他繼續說道:「在西班牙,員工就像家人一樣。」為了他們,三年前FA與餐廳的核心成員之一 Eugenu de Diego 一起重新思考該給員工吃什麼「我們決定為員工餐採取和餐廳套餐一樣的組織架構,我們在一個月前就預先規畫好每天的員工伙食。」他說。

Like the staffs of many great and even not-so-great restaurants, that of El Bulli practically bleeds onto the floor every night. (“You want to learn how to cook in good restaurants?” a chef asked me recently. “You work 110 hours a week.”) Most are underpaid (35 are interns who are unpaid), and most consider it an honor to do little more than learn from the permanent kitchen staff of about 12.

每天,像在許多其他偉大,或甚至根本沒那麼偉大的餐廳裡一樣,El Bulli的員工賣命廝殺到簡直可以說是流血漂杵的程度。(「想學學怎麼在好餐廳生存下來嗎?」最近有一個主廚才問過我「每週工作110個小時吧你!」)(譯註:我還在這裡幹嘛,怎麼還不去實驗室?)他們大部份人並未支薪(35位是沒薪水的實習生),除了向廚房中12位專職廚師學習做份內的工作,還視能"多做一些"為無上的榮耀。

It seemed only fair, then, to feed them something decent. And so a couple of the most talented chefs in the world effectively created a restaurant within a restaurant, serving a single prix-fixe menu to 75 or 80 staff members, with these requirements: The cost was to be 3 euros — about $4.50 — per person. “The cost of a hamburger,” Adrià says. “A bad hamburger.” It was to be a real menu: a starter, a main course and dessert, along with coffee, water and bread. The meal was to be prepared by two or three staff members, quickly: in theory, in less than an hour.

可見為他們提供上得了檯面的員工伙食真的只是剛剛好而已。於是乎,這世界有數的幾位廚師中的廚師,決心建立一間餐廳中的餐廳,替大約75到80位員工們準備一份「套餐」。基本要求是這樣的:每份成本三歐元,等於約四點五美金。「就是一個漢堡的價錢」FA說「一個鳥鳥的漢堡」,但必須是真正的套餐,包含前菜,主菜和甜點,還有咖啡、水和麵包。這樣的員工套餐將由二至三位員工負責料理,要能夠快速完成,時間不超過一小時。

On the first day of my visit, Adrià and I watched while, in the late afternoon, two sous chefs began assembling ingredients in the small, workmanlike prep kitchen off the main, showy kitchen. The quantities, for home cooks, were, of course, staggering — as was the equipment — but the techniques were pretty straightforward. They were making two of the recipes from “Family Cooking”: gazpacho — simple enough — and a fantastic black rice with cuttlefish, its ink, sofrito, green sauce and aioli.

在我拜訪的第一天下午,Adria和我一同觀看兩位二廚動手做員工餐,他們工作的地方不是亮麗的主廚房,而是個功能完整的準備室。對一個家廚而言,他們處理的份量和使用的設備固然非常壯觀,但技巧則毫無出奇之處。他們在做「外帶全家餐」一書中所列的兩道菜:蕃茄冷湯,這沒什麼,還有一道超棒的墨魚飯,材料包含了墨魚,墨魚(墨)汁,sofrito(譯註:西班牙菜裡常用的基底,是以橄欖油炒香的大蒜、蕃茄、洋蔥),綠醬以及aioli (大蒜美乃滋)。

It was this dish that led to our argument about what simple cooking meant. “You call this fast?” I protested. Adrià countered that I wasn’t understanding the difference between what you might call (in French) “cuisine simple” and “cuisine traditionnelle,” the first being the kind of cooking that I (and, I imagine, most people) do 99 percent of the time; the second being the kind that might start with “cook the cuttlefish and add the sofrito.”

也就是這一道菜引起了FA和我對所謂「簡易料理」定義的爭辯。「開玩笑,你說這樣做菜叫快嗎?」我對FA抗議道。他則反駁說我沒搞懂「簡易料理」和「傳統料理」之間的差別。前者指的是像我,以及大多數人(我猜)百分之九十九的人生中所做的菜,後者呢,則屬於那類要你從「將墨魚煮熟並加入sofrito」開始的烹飪。

Sofrito is no more than onions, tomatoes, garlic and oil, but it’s cooked for a long time, and it’s not something you start putting together on a weeknight, especially if your other tasks include making green sauce and aioli and, if you haven’t already done so, running out to buy cuttlefish ink, which, contrary to Adrià’s insistence, is not available everywhere. And especially if you’re going to claim that these are recipes that “can be done in an hour.”

Sofrito充其量不過是洋蔥、蕃茄、大蒜和油而已,但他得花時間慢燉,不是週間晚上能馬上備妥的,何況還得同時準備綠醬以及大蒜美乃滋,甚至倘若家裡不幸沒有,你還得跑去店裡買墨魚汁回來,與FA堅持的相反,墨魚汁這玩意兒才不是到處都嘛有的,尤其在他堅持這些是可以讓人在一小時內做好的菜的前題下。

Never mind; this is a terrific black-rice dish if an involved one, made up for perhaps by the simplicity of the gazpacho and even more so by the incredible dessert, which we helped make: chocolate bread. (Adrià ate this as a snack when he was boy and happily polished off a piece here, as did I.) Most everyone who sees this recipe will make and crave it: toast bread, and while it’s hot, grate chocolate over it. Drizzle with good olive oil, sprinkle with salt; finished.

算了沒差。反正這墨魚飯實在太棒了,就算真的要多費點功夫,至少可以靠簡單的冷湯,以及更簡單到不可思議的甜點補些秒數回來。我倆幫忙做了這個「巧克力麵包」甜點(這是 Adria 小時候常吃的點心,他開心地吃掉一整片,我也是)。我保証任何人只要看過食譜都做得出來,而且會愛吃的要命:將麵包烤成金黃色,趁還熱的時候磨點巧克力在上頭,淋一些上好的橄欖油,一撮海鹽,搞定。

While the cooking was going on, everyone else in the kitchen was absorbed in his or her task for the restaurant. But at 6:15, the atmosphere changed. Most people started cleaning up their stations, but a small group began setting up chairs at every horizontal surface, all over the kitchen. Last-minute prep began on the staff meal. At 6:30, a buffet line formed, and everyone — including Adrià (and, on this day, me) — ate, together. It was quick but relaxed, and everyone seemed to appreciate the food. (For everyday food, you want to eat this rather than “real” El Bulli food, anyway.) By 6:45, it was over. There was a group cleanup, and it was back to work.

當兩位二廚準備著員工餐時,廚房其他工作人員則專注於自己的工作上。到了6:15,氣氛開始改變。大多數人開始清理自己的檯面,有一組人開始在廚房裡的每一個平面旁擺上椅子,員工餐登場到數計時。六點半,大夥開始排隊取餐,然後每一個人,包括 Adria 以及今天的特別來賓在下,坐下來一起享用。一切顯得迅速卻又輕鬆,每個人看來都很喜歡這樣的食物(畢竟天天吃的話,你一定會選這個,而不是「正宗」的 El Bulli 料理)。6:45,用餐時間結束,有一組人負責收拾,其他人回到工作崗位上。

The cooking was more intimate the next day when Adrià and I made the staff meal for two in the main kitchen area while the big work went on elsewhere. This was sheer fun, a moment I’d been waiting for, with dishes familiar to me — that is, I’ve made things like them — and a situation in which I was comfortable.

隔天的烹飪則更親切宜人,Adria與我在大廚房一起做兩人份的員工餐(此處原本的工作被移到別處進行)。這是我等待已久的時刻,很有意思。而菜色也是我所熟悉的,我是指我做過類似的東西,整個情境也令我感到自在。

I’ve already been teased about my limited skills by a number of the world’s best chefs, though Adrià — perhaps because the language barrier limits all but a kind of intuitive, physical familiarity (we like each other, but we can’t really talk to each other, at least not well) — was in fact more respectful than most. We started by slicing potatoes, onions and tomatoes and chopping garlic; there was certainly nothing whiz-bang about this. We were cooking dinner.

我那高明有限的廚藝曾被不少世界頂尖名廚取笑過,不過或許是因為語言隔閡導致 Adria 與我之間只剩下最直觀、本能的熟稔(我們欣賞彼此,但無法流利地溝通),他反倒顯得份外尊重我。我們先將馬菱薯、洋蔥以及蕃茄切薄片,緊接著剁碎蒜頭,不是什麼神乎奇技的玩意兒,做頓晚飯罷了。

The recipes that evening (two of them are here, as is the recipe for chocolate bread; the third is online) were wonderful: a really lovely mussel dish with an elegant twist involving a simple, quickly made sauce of garlic, paprika, parsley and flour, in which the mussels cook and give up their juices; whole fish baked on top of the tomatoes, onions and potatoes, with not much else. Dessert was a superrich custard of sugar syrup, egg yolks, cream and rum.

當晚的菜相當棒:一道美妙的淡菜料理,用簡單快速---大蒜、紅椒粉、巴西里、麵粉以及淡菜本身的湯汁---的醬汁增添優雅的風味;一整條在蕃茄、洋蔥以及馬菱薯上烤熟的魚,就這樣。甜點則是一道超級濃郁,用糖漿、蛋黃、奶油以及蘭姆酒做成的布丁。

Not surprisingly, Adrià can cook. (What’s surprising is the increasing number of chefs who can’t.) And — this is perhaps what turned him from a dishwasher to the most celebrated chef of his generation — he’s in love with the transformations you can force on ingredients to make them change shape and form. Whether cuisine simple or traditionnelle, these dishes aren’t haute, but he still hovered, admiring the coloring of the garlic, the softening of the onions, the constantly changing texture of the fish, the aroma of the mussels.

毫無意外地,Adria真的能煮。(真正該令人意外的是為數漸多的不能煮的「主廚」才是吧),而我想真正讓他從洗碗工變成世界最知名大廚的地方在這裡:他實在深熱愛著那個食材經由親手烹煮而改變形態與質地的過程。無論所謂的「簡易料理」還是「傳統料理」,都一點也不高蹈,但 Adria 依舊興致勃勃地欣賞著他們,讚嘆著逐漸變成金黃色的大蒜,軟化出汁的洋蔥,隨溫度變化著質地的魚肉,以及淡菜散發的芬芳。

We ate this meal with the staff on El Bulli’s breathtakingly beautiful terrace overlooking the area’s rocky, piney coast. (It was impossible not to think that because the restaurant is closing, this would be the last time I’d eat out there.) We enjoyed it, but in the fashion of the chefs who really care, Adrià was solicitous: “Do you like the mussels? Their juices — with the garlic and parsley, pas mal, non?”

我們和員工們在El Bulli那令人屏息的美麗露台享用這一餐,俯看一旁嶙峋徒峭的岩岸(因為餐廳就快關了,我很難不想到這恐怕是我在此的最後一餐)。我們享受, 並且透過一個真正在乎一切的主廚的眼光体悟這一切。Adria 熱切的問我:「你喜歡那個淡菜嗎?怎麼樣,那個湯汁,配上大蒜還有巴西里的味道,不壞吧,嗯?」

Nothing could have been more different from a meal at El Bulli, and I’m not going to try to make some clever comparison about how all food is the same — it isn’t. These staff meals are good, straightforward cooking; El Bulli food is over-the-top, insane, once-in-a-lifetime stuff. The first is eternal; the second, well, we’ll see. Adrià, ever the optimist, said to me as I was leaving, “Hope is life’s driving force, and today, I have the hope of a child.”

世上沒什麼能比 El Bulli 的一餐更特別了,我不打算自作聰明地拿他和這些員工餐作比較,來「証明」食物都是一樣的---壓根就不是。這些員工餐很棒,不囉嗩; El Bulli(餐廳)的菜則超凡絕俗、神而明之,是一生只能有一次的体驗。在這裡的第一次將令你永生難忘,第二次呢,嗯,我們再走著瞧吧。Adria,這個我所認識最樂觀的傢伙,在我告別時對我說:「"希望"是驅動人生的動力,而今天,我就像孩子一般期待著。」

18 則留言:

Scubagolfer 提到...

Thanks for sharing this wonderful article!

becco 提到...

Thanks :)

NYT常有這類深入淺出的好文章,既有深度、識見而且寫得生動好讀的文章,且篇幅驚人,希望有一天台灣的報章也能有接近此水準的東西。

在這之前只能希望多一些人看到了。

eugene 提到...

我在看完「Ferran」的時候就對書裡提到的family meal超有興趣,他要出family meal的食譜實在太棒了,thank you for sharing the info!!!

becco 提到...

書已經可以在AMAZON上預訂了
http://www.amazon.com/Family-Meal-Cooking-Ferran-Adria/dp/0714862533/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1309889429&sr=8-5

Ferran實在厲害,找紐約時報專欄作家去採訪實際操做,沒什麼比這更高明的打書方式了。

catherine yo 提到...

拜謝,這篇好文這下子很多人可以讀。我很多朋友看到英文就給他自動跳過XD,馬上給他放噗浪FB和G+。HO YA

becco 提到...

別客氣,我每次看到英文也很想跳過,可是這篇寫太好,一不小心就發現已經讀完了,既然頭洗了一半,就順便把中文寫下來。

總之,NYT 這種高品質的東西能給愈多人看到愈好啊。

Starberry 提到...

Becco,

I think I mentioned this a while ago, where I was at a seminar/speaker series when FA was in town in NY.

The way he spoke of food reminded me of the way Ray Dalio (hedge fund god of macro investing) spoke about investing.

The most successful people in any field.... have the same level of passion that transcends their field. If you never find a higher calling than making money, than you will never make money. If you never think of cooking food beyond just cooking food... then you will never be a great chef.

Cheers,

Wilson

becco 提到...

Wilson,

我年底也有機會參加Ferran Adria 與會的seminar呢,好興奮!

我非常同意你說的那種passion是最重要的。不過我有時候對所謂的higher call比較不解,所謂的higher call真的是必要或存在的嗎?這會不會表示你其實沒那麼喜歡這件事,所以有時候higher call變成一種麻醉自己的東西呢?

或許,我們根本就可以做或煮投入某件事for it's own right 好比為了科學而科學,因為發現與好奇所帶來的樂趣,而非建設國家造福社會,為了煮飯為了能創造出好的菜而煮,而不是為了"給xx帶來幸福"這種餐廳常常標謗但其實沒有人會相信的日式廣告辭,為了自己的野心、權力與自我感覺從政,而不是在那裡無比噁心地靠夭說為國為民,為了愛國家人民打拼(有誰做到過嗎?),為了白花花的銀子和不斷攀高的帳戶餘額,為了買大把大把的遊艇跑車名模而賺錢,而不是"令天下寒士聚歡顏"這樣的理由…

像影片裡Anthony Bourdain在影片裡問FA他為什麼要把餐廳收掉,因為就如FA說的,這餐廳照現在的模式再run 20年都沒問題,那麼,為什麼要關掉呢?

FA說:因為現在的El Bulli已經運作的太完美,變無聊(對FA自己)了。我想玩點新的。

所以你看,這一切終究還是為FA自己爽才做的。否則我相信無論多"無聊",那些等了半年終於訂到位子的人,在吃的時候仍舊會感到一樣的幸福的呀。


我沒有要否定higher call 的意思,只是有時候我想以上那些更自利、有時被認為不夠high的動機也是另一種可能,或許如你所說的,有真正higher call的才會成就其greatness,而我們看過百分之九十九點九檯面上的傢伙,都只是拿higher call嘴砲,高射砲。

匿名 提到...

MY GOD!!

請問BECCO,

確定他要關了嗎????
是真的要關了??
真的嗎真的嗎!!!!!

天哪!!!
是今年七月嗎???
他還會再復出嗎??
"EL bulli" 會再重開嗎???

我的人生不可能完整了.............

天哪!!!!!

TSUI

becco 提到...

非常確定

becco 提到...

Tsui,

就像報導裡說的,El Bulli餐廳關門之後,作為一個類似智庫般的機構的El Bulli foundation 會在同一天成立,所以你我的人生永遠有機會變得完整,只是有時未必會以最初所想像的形式實現罷了。

iris 提到...

Nice article! And i can't agree with Wilson more......

becco 提到...

各我買了這本了食譜了,而且還現場給Ferran Adria 簽名!

握手、合照完在一旁把相機收起來的時候,發現我竟然因為太興奮緊張而胃痙攣了…

總之,有空要來做這裡面的菜了!!!!

no rules 提到...

找報社專欄作家是常見之事了,LA Times寫過多次,Thomas Keller亦有。這本family meals食譜書,我只能說幸好當初是跟圖書館借來的,沒花錢去買,書裡有許多食材量都怪怪的。會做是一回事,會寫食譜是另一回事。Keller書好用甚多。

becco 提到...

量會怪怪的哦?我試做了幾個都很ok啊,尤其是幾個巧克力甜點,一開始還有點懷疑,結果成效都相當好。我通常是照他說的六人份做的,兩人份的反而不好抓。

這食譜好是好在東西都非常簡單,隨便做一做就不錯、至少能吃了。

Keller 在LA times上的我似乎看過,如果你指的是去年的話。同一系列還有一些比較不出名的廚師…不過出現在NY Times上還是令我稍感意外/驚喜些就是了。Mark Bittman這篇文章讓我覺得很喜歡的是因為他不只是食譜操練,還加上他與Ferran Adria有趣的互動,滿深入的reflection,加上適逢El Bulli即將關門之際,當然還有他獨特的風格,讀起來有一種風雲際會的歷史參與感。

PC12 提到...

我去年讀到這篇文章後,書出版的時候眼睛一閉就下單了,目前做過三套 meal,基本上是完全按照食譜的分量做 2-6 人份,出來的成果讓我自己和被抓來清盤子的朋友都很滿意,尤其是醬汁和甜點的部分,終於讓我找到能調出義式餐廳常淋在海鮮和於上面的油醋醬配方了(拭淚),我唯一有點意見的是,不知道是不適專業廚房裡都深鍋大灶而且幾乎沒有不沾鍋,食譜裡橄欖油的分量常常相當驚人,比如 meal 11 裡用將近1/2杯的橄欖油去煎雞翅上色,這是要油炸吧。

我目前為止很滿意這本書的配方,準備步驟的 flow chart 也讓我獲益良多,圖解算詳細,對於小訣竅也多所提示,但基本廚房技巧與常識的介紹不多,個人覺得有一點基本對做菜的了解來看這本食譜會大大提高成功率(比如說常常煮飯的媽媽們),如果完全是新手入門,這本書可能不很合適 (不過這也可能是我個人的情況,我是個如果沒有人像 becco 大在重點底下畫紅線點破訣竅開釋就打死做不出來的人...)。

becco 提到...

哈哈,關於橄欖油,我覺得你說的不無道理(大鍋子)但另一方面南歐人用橄欖油的手筆是我們其他地方人乍看之下難以想像的。

我記得Marcela Hazan就曾經說過,外國人做義大利菜最大的問題就是橄欖油用的太戰戰兢兢,量太少就不到味了。

跟著這些人的食譜做久了,如今我用起橄欖油來也豪放許多,一瓶750 ml的油通常一個半月就見底了。橄欖油這東西不是純粹的"油",同時也是一直調味用的醬汁,讓人愈用愈著迷於他的味道。你看那道經典大蒜辣椒蝦,通常蝦子也沒幾隻,但碗底盤底的油總是剩那麼多,那不只是讓你當cooking liquid,而是要用麵包沾光來吃的啊!

的確他對基本技巧講的不多,不過書一開頭講很多基本醬料和湯底的章節真的還滿有用的,也讓人對西班牙料理有更進一步的認識。

PC12 提到...

"不過書一開頭講很多基本醬料和湯底的章節真的還滿有用的" (點頭)

拿到書之後,我最先大笑看完的是前言,其中詳列了關於準備過程的流程和注意事項,雖然很多專業廚師都或多或少強調過系統化備料的重要性,但像這樣仿實驗手冊條列 protocol 的食譜倒很不常見。曾有次一群當時都還不曾,也不會煮飯的朋友聊起烹飪這件事情,都覺得「下廚」這件事令我們怯步的主因之一是,食譜上的分量有很多都不精準,媽媽們更老是一句「憑感覺」就帶過,翻成實驗室用語就是「步驟留一手、有本事你自己摸」,當然我們都了解調味這件事情最後得憑味覺試味道調整,小量放大量從來也不是等比例放大就成,但一個明明就根基於物理化學的過程,基礎的量化應該是件辦得到的事情,每個步驟應該都有大致判斷的準則,就看作者和老師有沒有心願不願意點破而已。