2011年6月14日 星期二

不雅?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/89/masa000dj5.jpg/sr=1

今天美國餐飲界最大的新聞應該是這個: 紐約單人消費最高昂的餐廳 MASA 被紐約時報的 Sam Sifton 拿掉一星!(4-->3)。

不曉得這與當年Ruth Reichl 把 Le Cirque 降星是否足堪比擬。當年,事件發生後傳奇的 Le Cirque 便一蹶不振,再振乏力,到今天都還沒真正重新站起來。

文章在下面,有興趣的人不妨看一下首席食評SS的理由。

總之看起來 Masa 被摘星的原因並不是因為料理變差,或者因為核災造成食材不穩之類的。
美國食家們,包括Anthony Bourdain, Eric Ripert 等等內行或行內人,對 MASA 的食物一向是毫無保留地稱讚,我自己沒吃過難以評論,但從洋人口中所描述的,尤其他們歌頌不已的壽司,我覺得在東京大約中上的店就達得到,台北幾間高級壽司店也行,那不外乎是入口即化的鮪魚腹,溫熱的壽司飯,甜美鬆軟的穴子魚,還有如高級珠寶般地切工與造型等等,一萬日幣打死絕無問題,當然那價錢吃不到詹醫師筆下令人神往的魚子醬,不過洋人對此反而甚少著墨,而且坦白說若非看過詹醫師的文章,我可能永遠認定他是一間平庸、只能騙騙美國人的高貴餐廳。

有多貴? 一人450美金不含酒水小費,這個價錢,可以在隔壁的per se餵飽一點五個大人,還含服務費哩。

也因為這麼貴,所以MASA受到的期待是最高等級的,這就是SS不滿的地方,簡單的說,他被摘星根本是因為服務不到位,而這,據SS說,會把整個用餐經驗破壞掉的。

例如某一次他比預約的時間早五分鐘到,其他客人還沒到齊,前檯的小姐確定他的(假)名之後便收下他的皮箱鎖在櫃子裡,對他說:「你可以去外面等,客人到齊了就可以入座,還有待會兒進來時記得把手機關掉。」SS說他實在很難想像在同一棟建築(Times Warner Center)裡的其他餐廳,例如per se或者 porter house,會請先到的客人自己去外面等著,尤其那已過晚餐時間甚久,商店都打烊了(嗯,就算沒打烊還是很怪,難不成真的要去逛地下樓的 Wholfoods 開胃嗎? 不過這事我真的幹過…還去William Sonoma 欣賞Michel Bras的刀具組,他們真是有夠美的)

第二,在吧台上,廚房準備的菜肴常在未經任何侍者或板前的解釋下被端給客人,反之,在餐廳裡享用的客人也往往只能帶著滿腹狐疑與不解---到底我花了450吃的這是什麼魚---吞下他的握壽司。當甜點上完之後所有的外場人員幾乎再也無視你的存在,直到你要帳單為止。

第三,就是主廚/老闆Masa Takayama先生對熟客或者吧台上的大戶大小眼,眼睛大小自然與客人花的錢成正比。Takayama桑可以逕自與喝著Meursault、力邀他去 Sun Valley渡假---當然是搭客人的私人飛機---的客人談笑風聲,卻將吧台上另一組客人---就是Sam Sifton自己了吧---徹底忽略,我猜這是最令這位美國紐約時報首席食評家,號稱美食界最有權力的男人,最為不滿的。

嗯,看到這裡不曉得大家作何感想? 先回家吃餃子了,晚點再聊。
----------------------------------------吃了十四顆餃子----------------------------------------------------------
回家的路上想了一下這篇餐廳評論。反倒有點同情起Masa來 (雖然我猜生意應該不受影響),同情的點在於文化隔閡造成的非戰之罪上。在實驗室時先和網友C兄聊了一下,我們都傾向認為食評終究該以食物為主,服務的形式與風格有時候真的很受文化背景左右。

問題來了,一間強調道地日本風味(雖然有些創新口味的菜色),絕大多數食材都從日本空運進口的高級日本料理,被放到紐約餐飲的金字塔頂端,該如何融入或者說調和彼此背景間的不同呢?

仔細看看被SS打槍的服務缺失。有關第一點,我可以同意在餐廳未滿況且只差五分鐘的情況下,要客人去餐廳外面等著在美國是一件相當奇怪的事,是非常缺乏彈性的做法。這種等級的餐廳多半會有個等待區和吧台,巴不得你先去點杯雞尾酒或香檳---畢竟這玩意兒利潤最好---但另一方面,就算在東京,由於餐廳尚未準備好或預約時間未到而請客人在餐廳外面等候,其實並不是一件不尋常的事情。我說的不是像築地的大和壽司或者拉麵店,事實上過去幾年來我還著實欣賞了不少和食名店的暖廉,背對著電梯口以及其他更晚到的客人們。


至於對菜色的解釋付之闕如這點,我也同意沒有藉口可講,好歹說一聲"Tuna"之類的吧。這在日本就算是不會講英文的老闆娘也會努力做到。但另一方面我不禁好奇 Masa 經營團隊的背景,究竟日本化的程度有多純粹,如果連金目鯛都從伊豆空運過來,那是不是連舞孃或其他外場也原裝進口呢?雖說可能性極低,畢竟這樣的餐廳所投入的資本,不會請不到同時精通英日語的外場人員,況且壽司或天麩羅料亭這樣的餐廳所需的外場服務,在我看來其實要求不高,不是非日本人不可。但另一方面我真的在一風堂的入口遇過英文很不甚靈光的吧台,或者像料理鐵人Morimoto到現在還只能說"very good"這樣。怎麼說呢,只能解釋成日本人想的跟我們不一樣吧。以我的經驗,日籍服務生因為對英文心生畏懼而表現木然甚至有時令人感到粗魯,並不算是太稀有的事。當然我還沒去過 MASA ,一切只是猜測,猜測如果他徹底日本化的時候可能會有的問題。

至於第三點,我只想說,come on~(下巴盡可能往地心延伸),這在任何地方都是鐵律,有錢有關係的客人得到更好的照顧,這點SS身為記者,食評,而且還在紐約時報工作,應該比任何人都清楚,否則為什麼要匿名呢?不幸的是這在日本料理吧台更明顯,一來是文化---我小時候聽說傳統的壽司店是不會讓第一次來的客人坐吧台的,要老闆有一天看你順眼才行,這點我一直無從証實,有沒有專家可以幫小弟解惑一下? 二來壽司師傅不同於西廚,不能躲在廚房或說後台,話說你怎麼知道Daniel Boulud 在廚房幫你切的鵝肝沒有比 Ruth Reichl 漂亮呢? 畢竟上桌時看起來都差不多,但在吧台,就比較難掩飾了。

SS語重心長地說"…culture at its highest must never feel transactional, whatever its cost." 我只能說這種書生之見太矯情。姑且不論 MASA 的料理或者料理這件事是否 culture at its highest ,在這樣沉痛呼告之前,要不要先問為什麼米開郎基羅或達文西畫的多半是主教、大公、梅地奇's或天上聖母呢? (當然你說人家莫內也畫不用錢的蓮花,梵谷畫付不出房租還少了隻耳朵的自己,但我們當然不會說前兩者沒有後兩位high不是嗎)

(待續)




June 14, 2011
Masa
By SAM SIFTON
IS it worth it?

This is the question that has attended Masa, the stupendously expensive sushi emporium in the Time Warner Center, ever since it opened in 2004. The food at the restaurant is exceptional, offering tastes and preparations that can be unforgettable.

Take one bite of expertly diced, top-grade fatty bluefin tuna tartare cloaked in an equal measure of osetra caviar and discover a central truth: Masa, owned and operated by the chef Masayoshi Takayama, is one of New York’s peak culinary indulgences.

That bite comes at some cost. Seven years ago, Masa had a base price of $300 a person, excluding tax, tip and upgrades like something to drink. Now it is $450 for the same fandango, an increase of 50 percent. A meal for two at the restaurant can easily run to $1,500 — an amount that is a little more than 35 percent of the Census Bureau’s most recent calculation of the median monthly household income in the United States.

The relationships between cost and quality, experience and service have always been sticky ones for those who spend their time and money in restaurants, particularly in New York. Here are the best dumplings you may ever eat outside of China, five for $1. Over there, a steak to blow the mind of the biggest hat in Texas: it costs $190 for two people. One expensive restaurant has ironed tablecloths and nearly obsequious service. Another has placemats and plays the music of the Doobie Brothers, and loudly, too. How do we make sense of the differences among all these? Can that sense be quantified?

I went to Masa to explore those questions, in meals eaten over the course of more than 12 months, first in the spare, quiet dining room and later at the wide and sanded expanse of its hinoki-wood sushi bar. Much of my time was spent in a fog of pleasure, sitting dumbfounded on the shores of excess.

There is no menu and no choice afforded customers beyond deciding whether you want to spend an extra $120 for a plate of thinly sliced wagyu tataki with summer truffles. (In for a penny!) You simply surrender to the restaurant’s will, which is no trial.

The quality of the ingredients and preparations were sometimes breathtaking. This was true from that toro-and-caviar dish that started my meals through the elegant kaiseki-style preparation of sea trout in a shabu-shabu broth, and from an indulgent bite of shaved summer truffles pressed onto sushi rice on through course after course of sushi to the grapefruit gratinée that signaled the end of recent meals.

The sushi particularly astonished. Takahiro Sakaeda, the chef who prepared two of my meals, paced the evenings with the studied wickedness of a great D.J. or playwright, building acts into the meal, replete with turning points, subplots and rising action. (Speaking of: on one night, Mr. Takayama did not even seem to be in the restaurant.)

Nearly all the fish Mr. Sakaeda prepared came from Japan, save some orange clam that one evening he allowed, with a small smile, to be local. There was horse mackerel and the deep-sea snapper known as kinmedai, squid and sea bream and fat red shrimp, all cut beautifully and served over ever-so-slightly warm sushi rice: a near-perfect vehicle for the fish. Mr. Sakaeda dressed these himself under a whisper of soy or a grain of Himalayan salt, depending, and passed them along like gifts.

There was soft, unctuous saltwater eel under the lightest dusting of yuzu zest, a zip that offset the marvelous oil of the fish. And there was delicate grilled tuna sinew, a vile texture transformed through fire into a silky, transcendent one, amazing to behold.

Mr. Sakaeda proved himself a brilliant guide to the gifts of the sea: a careful chef and eager teacher who rewarded interest with insight, pleasure with yet more.

But extraordinary food alone does not an extraordinary restaurant make. The experience of eating at Masa can clash, sometimes greatly, with the grace, simplicity and excellence of the cuisine on display.

One night I entered the 26-seat restaurant five minutes before my reservation time, arriving before my three guests. The room was empty, save for servers and one occupied table in the dining room. The woman at the restaurant’s front checked my (fake) name off a short list of reservations on a piece of paper on a block of wood in front of her. She took my briefcase and placed it in a closet.

Then: “You may wait outside,” she said. “When you return with your guests, please have your cellphone turned off or on silent.”

Masa is on the fourth floor of the Time Warner Center, in the midst of the mall’s vaunted Restaurant Collection, an assemblage that includes Per Se and Porter House in addition to Masa and its prêt-à-porter satellite restaurant, Bar Masa. Per Se is next door. It is hard to imagine anyone there asking a diner to wait outside for his guests.

There are other wrinkles in Masa’s fine silk. At the sushi bar it is not uncommon for the prepared dishes served at the start of a meal, which are brought to the bar by servers, to be placed before customers with no explanation whatsoever. In the dining room it is possible for the same lapse to occur with the arrival of the sushi. It is unsettling, given the luxury of the food, and the question of its cost.

Some will take issue with the fact that Masa serves an enormous amount of bluefin tuna, a fish that some say hovers on the brink of collapse as a species. (The reason is presumably simple: its taste.) Others will cavil at the manner in which Mr. Takayama caters to some guests in the restaurant while ignoring others, in seemingly direct proportion to the amount of money they are spending.

(“Come stay with us in Sun Valley,” a burgher said to Mr. Takayama one night, handing him a glass of Montrachet. “I’ll fly you in.” Mr. Takayama raised the wine and laughed.)

Finally, meals at the restaurant end with a clank: you are given a dessert and it throws a switch. Everyone turns away and you will have little contact with the staff until you find someone to give you the bill. Guests stare at one another awkwardly: What do we do now?

At the end of its first year in business, Frank Bruni awarded Masa four stars in these pages, the newspaper’s highest rating. Masa was the first Japanese restaurant to achieve four stars since Hatsuhana was reviewed by Mimi Sheraton in 1983. (Ms. Sheraton praised that restaurant’s tempura and its inside-out rolls, while noting that the prices were lower than at other sushi restaurants in the city: “$100 for two, with tax, tip and three Scotches each.”)

Masa, Mr. Bruni noted, “is very much a restaurant of this time and place.”

That is perhaps no longer the case. Bruised by recession, wizened by experience, gun-shy about the future, New York City now demands of its four-star restaurants an understanding that culture at its highest must never feel transactional, whatever its cost. We ascend to these heavens for total respite from the world below, for extraordinary service and luxuriant atmosphere as much as for the quality of the food prepared.

Masa is the city’s greatest sushi restaurant. That is not nothing.

Masa

★★★

Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, fourth floor; (212) 823-9800, masanyc.com.

ATMOSPHERE A spare, windowless and neutral-colored room, with just 26 seats and an aesthetic marked by bare sanded wood and a huge spray of flowers.

SOUND LEVEL Hushed.

WINE LIST A geographically diverse list of expensive wines and very expensive trophy wines, with sakes to match.

PRICE RANGE $450 prix fixe, lunch and dinner, excluding tax, tips and beverages.

HOURS For lunch, reservations taken for noon or 1 p.m. Tuesday to Friday. For dinner, 6 to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday.

RESERVATIONS Recommended a few weeks ahead. Reservations must be guaranteed with a credit card. There is a penalty of $200 a person for cancellations within 48 hours of the dining date.

CREDIT CARDS All major cards.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Restaurant is on one level, near an elevator from the lobby.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN Ratings range from zero to four stars and reflect the reviewer’s reaction to food, ambience and service, with price taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.

44 則留言:

scubagolfer 提到...

不幸在 Hell's Kitchen(Season 8?)看到 Morimoto San 威風八面的出場客串做壽司,Gordon Ramsey 一旁高亢重複介紹為 "The GOD of sushi"... 但一見到其手法、動作、成品,就知別說是 GOD, Demi-GOD,恐怕連東京中級壽司屋的大將都不如

北美好混、好賺喔~~~ ^^

Fox 提到...

有人請客到masa,去那時候還不知道有名,只是覺得門口跟玄關都好小.......壽司是很好..不過感覺4xx的價格有點是吃在"shipping fee"上了。
當時老闆不在,我們的壽司師傅是個廿多歲的四川人,都蠻專業健談。不過其他侍者服務真的是一般般,因為吃壽司,又不用換餐具。又沒有主動加熱荼之類的。
回家上網..才發現....三...三...三星。當下就有點are u kidding的感覺了

babel2 提到...

masa開在紐約,食材多少受限制,花多點shipping fee還算合理,也是要體諒人家的不方便。
看文中所提,服務確實是不太好,不過如果講解太詳細,在NY搞不好又會被環保份子抵制。
另外我想起以前野壽司在台北剛開時,藤永大介也不太受好評,惡評者所在多有,也有「重量級」部落客說藤永這種水準日本多的是,今天回頭一看,好像也不儘然呢XD

becco 提到...

scubagolfer 大,

看到你的結論,我想Alain Ducasse, Joel Robuchon或甚至Gordon Ramsay都會抗議的!

只能說距離產生美感吧,美國人對亞州食物的品味普遍也不能算高(但歐洲人就會好一點嗎?我好奇)。我記得有一次,在東京轉機回台,聯合航空所在的那個航廈裡有一家壽司「京辰」,是我每次都會去吃的(不是因為他多了不得,只是因為我等不及),那時在吧台上坐我旁邊的一對美國夫妻專注的看著師傅的一舉一動,那位太太以百般崇敬的口吻讚道:I am watching a real artist,我瞄了一眼,那位師傅在做的是…海苔捲…

Fox,

我可以想像shipping fee佔很大的因素,而且我也很同情廚師,因為我相信就算是同樣的魚,美國這裡的供應商或魚民的處理絕對不可能如築地的小心仔細,更別提魚種的多樣性了。其實不只是MASA,紐約比較上得了檯面的壽司店據說都是這樣,只是礙於美國法規的限制,能獲得的食材還是相當受限。畢竟這是一個連在wholefoods都買不到帶皮帶骨的羊腿的國家,我們就不要要求太高了。

我猜測對 MASA 這間餐廳的料理,比較適宜的角度應該是像這篇文章講的 http://blog.xuite.net/charl/stars/26225852 不要用正統或什麼江戶前的眼光去看他,那在美國是死路一條,放下那樣的堅持,那這個國家還是有些好些東西值得欣賞的。

例如我現在就很努力地想訂Momofuku Ko試試,呵。

至於 MASA 的三星,嗯,年底再看看吧。

becco 提到...

babel2,

我是不曉得藤永大介的手藝在東京有多少,因為我在東京也就吃過幾次而已,不過他剛開的那一年我還在台灣,感覺是很不錯的。

這週末去紐約可能會找一家壽司來吃吧,上一次吃好像是兩輩子之前的事了,好想念。

Eric 提到...

因為服務而被降星倒是挺意外,撇開食物不談,MASA的服務是我在紐約碰過前幾名的。它的確沒有等候區跟另外的吧台,去了幾次從沒碰過被要求在外面等的事,師傅也都會解說上的菜是什麼。不過離上次去也是兩年多前的事了,或許中間有什麼轉變吧。

這家的確花很多成本在shipping fee跟打通關節上。美國禁止從日本進口雙殼貝類,它硬是有辦法弄到新鮮的赤貝跟鳥貝上桌。這也是我在紐約看過唯一一家會把鮪魚上腹的筋全部挑光的店。奢侈是奢侈,但賣到那個價錢個人覺得更多還是為了營造高貴的感覺。味道本身...壽司是真的還好,了不起就是東京一萬日幣出頭可以吃到的味道,反倒是前菜真的很讚。

若有興趣去紐約找壽司吃,個人大力推薦15 East。請指名坐在吧台Shimizu-san前面,壽司絕對大勝Masa。

Rich 提到...

我必須得同意 SS. 在此價位, 這種服務在美國是不行的. 但這跟我念到的東京次郎的服務方式雷同. 也許某些壽司師傅不覺得餐廳應該屬於服務業吧.

至於北美混, 我覺得這麼說言重了. 紐約的壽司文化的確不如台北普及, 而 GR 的場面話也的確很白爛. 但是小弟在紐約 Kuruma Zushi 吃了一餐 (歹勢, 俺還沒有能力吃 Masa), 覺得並不比在台北許多高檔壽司屋的差. 紐約平價的 Sushiden, 也比許多台北平價壽司地道.

而且, 台灣的異國料理除了日本料理比北美出色, 其他方面...

becco 提到...

>紐約平價的 Sushiden, 也比許多台北平價壽司地道.

wait a second,你是認真的嗎?能不能推薦一下,我在美國真的還沒有吃到過,光是魚料的品質和種類就令我失望不已了。

台北還有一個大勝北美的東西就是法式甜點,我猜不久之後麵包也是,至少以空間密度而言。手工巧克力不算,紐約至少還有LMC,Jacque Torres也還可以。

哦對了,台北要喝到好的espresso也容易多啦,台大附近溫州街裡的幾家,更別提東區La Crema或普羅那些。那天我興沖沖地去學校附近一家新開的Crema cafe喝espresso,是實驗室的咖啡愛好者推薦的,喝完只能說差太多了。恐怕還是得跑一趟西雅圖看看。

好想念台北。

becco 提到...

Eric,

感謝你的推薦!事實上我就是看過你的文章打算去吃15 East,偏偏他周六只做晚餐,週日休息,而我其他時候排了飯局了。下次一定去試試看!

MASA如果有人出錢的話,我是不介意去站外面等候入場啦。

這篇感想其實還沒寫完,不過在這裡略提一下。我對於他被降星這件事有一個很大的疑問,就是他的服務是這一兩年才變得這樣,還是在Frank Bruni時代就如此? 如果是前者(依你描述的看來似乎是這樣)那麼他被降星只能說活該,如果是後者,表示他從一開始就把東京那一套拿來玩,而Frank Bruni 不以為忤,米其林指南也覺得ok,那就牽涉到Sam Sifton 自己的標準了,也就是說偉大的紐約時報食評因人設事的程度可以達到一顆星之多(而且四星變三星與三星變二星,那影響差的可不是"同樣差一星"而已),這對NYT是好的嗎?

我個人對SS的標準一直還滿保留的,坦白說,這位仁兄在這方面的專業背景,真的夠坐穩這個位子嗎?

說白一點,我一直覺得Daniel的服務不怎麼樣,即使我以採訪者的身份去吃時亦然 (事實上美國的三星餐廳只有FL和per se讓我真的覺得有到米其林三星),我也一直認為那是他過了兩三年才拿到三星的原因,因為菜其實沒有多大的進步---這句話倒沒有貶意就是了。

Fox 提到...

其實我說"shipping fee"這詞沒有貶的意思..我是明白在美國的難處的..壽司真的好吃。不過我的處女三星之旅就這樣不明不白的給了masa,只吃到奢侈豪華加難得的心理感覺,舌頭未有"三星真實受惠"再加上其他侍者的服務(再三註明壽司師傅很專業)。對於我來說,不免有點失落的。

我這邊(中部)的wholefood有買帶皮(外皮削掉,只剩白皮)帶骨的羊腿呀,可能東部不流行???

Eric 提到...

拙作獻醜了,自己回頭看那篇文都有點汗顏,感謝站長不吝賜教...

比起Sam Sifton,我反倒對Frank Bruni的標準較持保留態度,當初eGullet上面眾人可是每個禮拜追著Frank Bruni挑毛病,可惜那個討論串現在找不到了。

在東京吃壽司十來次,個人還沒碰過不讓生客坐吧台的事。或許過去的年代有吧,不過現在就連次郎都開始為西方客人印製英日對照菜單,拍照錄影樣樣允許,這樣的傳統﹝如果真有﹞應該也隨著米其林打入日本而消逝了吧。

不過去MASA幾次,第一次被安排給大弟子捏,從那之後每次去都是自動被帶到大弟子面前,中間起碼兩三次是高山雅夫本人就在吧台前,而且到吃完為止他前面都沒有任何客人...

Rich 提到...

恩. 台北的法式甜點及麵包的確比美國強 (台北以外我不了解. 阿 expresso 我是沒研究拉. 我都馬買 Intelligensia 豆子在家自己泡 pour-over). 我說異國料理的時候, 範圍想得太全面了 (例如, 法式料理, 義大利料理, 非洲料理云云). 台北有些細節還是做的不錯的.

曼哈頓的 Sushiden 就不錯. 種類當然沒有台北的高檔壽司屋多, 不過以 execution 來說, 魚的切工, 溫度, 飯的醋量, 溫度, 及濕度, 都是到位的. 不要像老美一樣跟他拿菜單. 就坐在板前, 一貫一貫邊吃邊點. 溫度比一般平價壽司穩定多了. 我是認真推薦的拉. 當然, 這是平價店, 我吃一餐僅 50 刀, 所以不要跟台灣的野壽司或 Masa 比. 不過至少比什麼三井強拉!

http://www.sushiden.com/

Rich 提到...

Daniel 的服務的確有點太冷. 至於食物, 我覺得 execution 很穩定, 但是肉類主菜的食材太多. 味道往往過於複雜. 的確不到三星水平. 但是二星沒問題.

becco 提到...

看了一網頁發現好眼熟,原來是壽司田,我在成田機場買過外帶。

好,這週六剪完頭就來去吃!

感謝推薦。

Rich 提到...

突然想到, 聽說 Madison Ave. 上要開一家 Laduree. 上次咱在聊馬卡龍,你要是去曼哈頓可以去試試看.

becco 提到...

是的,在864 Madison Ave. ,七月才會開

當然希望是完整的店面,順便賣點opera或千層酥之類的好提升美國實在有夠低的甜點素質

Rich 提到...

呵呵,我想你說的是法式甜點吧. 的確,美國想找個像樣的法式甜點屋很難. 以紐約來講,義大利甜點及精品巧克力好找多了. 假如你不在意一點 fusion, 曼哈頓的 Lady M 還不錯 - 日式西點 - 算是我在紐約吃到比較優的.

becco 提到...

是的,只有法式甜點值得特別去追求啊。況且我不認為義大利人的甜點有到達同樣的高度過。

巧克力的話,有好的,但選擇也不多,吃久了就膩了…

Lady M 下午剛去,看來還不錯,正在吃他的crepe 蛋糕,不賴。

Rich 提到...

恩. 法式甜點比較精緻,比較有層次.

我想我是個比較多情的甜點人吧(連和菓子都愛). 我更是個 chocoholic. 不知道有無投其所好, 不過假如你吃膩了曼哈頓的大品牌,布魯克林區的 Mast Brothers 的精品古法巧克力很適合 purists/foodies. 推薦一下.

Rich 提到...
作者已經移除這則留言。
Rich 提到...

FYI, you can also take a $10 tour of their factory. I haven't done it, but it might be interesting.

And here's a youtube video about them. Better than the one they have on their website.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DspDrgLcwds

becco 提到...

好多留言沒回,請容我在這裡一併回覆(blogspot的功能好爛)

Fox,

是的,我也完全認同你說的 shipping fee,甚至像Eric說的打通關節的費用也是在美國的必要之惡(?),沒有貶意,反而還滿服這些人的毅力的。關於羊腿,我覺得很鳥的是這裡無論是costco、trader joe's、或是wholefoods賣的都只有去皮去骨的羊腿肉,這東西拿去烤六小之後只會變成一堆無味的蛋白質而已,我不曉得他們在想什麼,為什麼不賣正常完整的,然後butcher可以應客人的要求去皮或去骨,像魚的攤位一樣不是很好嗎?

嗯,會不會是東岸的人比較假掰,想進廚房卻怕熱,想吃好的又怕沾染血腥呢?

至於你說的處女三星秀哦…只能給你秀秀,你就想反正第一次未必是完美的,再不然你就去同在中部的 Alinea 用高科技再造一下吧 XD


Eric,

您和 breadbug 討論紐約壽司的文章令我獲益匪淺,那個「紐約美食」的blog也很精采,只是最近似乎沒有再更新了?是搬家了嗎?

那個不讓生客坐吧台的江湖傳言是我小時候聽到的,可能已經是很久遠的事了啦。不過熟客受到禮遇或老大親自下場料理,我覺得這種事真的不用太大驚小怪的。

紐約時報這兩位食評我也不知誰比較好,其實我大部份的時候是看不完的,舉個例子,FB把Eleven Madison Park升為四星,而Sam sifton 將Del Posto提為四星,但這兩家真的有到紐約最高的那個tier嗎?我非常保留。

所謂的食評食評,到底是在評什麼或者憑什麼,其實是這次MASA摘星記讓我更進一步思考的,不過暫時還沒辦法寫。

becco 提到...

Rich,

我也很愛甜點,不過我可能比較薄倖一些…巧克力一直是我的最愛,但還是覺得ganach最能表現甜點師的技藝、創意和味覺敏銳度。我也曾迷過好一陣子單一產區的黑巧克力,但就像我現在會回頭去喝更多 espresso 一樣,太pure的東西對我而言邊際效應遞減的比較快,和果子或日本茶亦然。當然後兩者賞味期短,而且不去日本真的很難好好享用,更增添困難。

美國的甜點…當然好的甜甜圈很棒,我愛死了,但就算是doughnut plant或Keller做的也不會讓人想每天飯後必來一圈的。

義大利的話,我不太把Gelato當"甜點",像西西里人那樣早餐夾麵包吃我認為很讚。至於其他,我也曾為了Tiramisu特地去Treviso一趟,印象就是像在台中看太陽餅吧的感覺,好的Tiramisu真的很好吃,但他還能再往什麼地方變化呢?加上自己也大約做得出來,就會覺得疲乏了。西西里和拿坡里的甜點有名,吃了一些,覺得是很棒的street food,甜的毫不客氣,我真心喜歡,只是也還沒有讓人有再三玩味誘惑力。

義大利的餐廳,甜點一般而言也不突出,當然這只是我個人的經驗。

我現在把注意力放在西班牙了,有全甜點的餐廳,Ferran Adria的弟弟也是甜點師,這伙人會搞出什麼新的瘋狂的玩意兒,真是讓我期待。

正在吃黑師傅捲心餅的
Becco

becco 提到...

Rich,

另外謝謝你推薦的Mast brothers,希望下次能跟Almodine一次嚐到啊!

Eric 提到...

Breadbug和我在09年都相繼回國,blog自然也隨之停擺了...

何謂食評的問題頗有意思,尤其是在部落格當道人人都有管道發聲的時代,究竟怎樣才算當得起「評」這個字?抑或任何意見不論客觀主觀皆可算評,無論發言者背景經歷如何?回到最根本的,其實光是怎樣才算一篇公正客觀的食評似乎就沒個準則。旁徵博引廣談典故、料理手法、食材等似乎只算得上「介紹」,不加上個人喜好感覺難以作出評語,但該到怎樣程度才不算流於偏頗?當雙方經歷皆為豐富,對同一餐看法卻大相逕庭的時候,又該如何看待兩者之間評價的差異?真的有很多思考的空間。

becco 提到...

Eric,

原來如此,那祝你們在台灣大展鴻圖。我會繼續扛起在紐約吃飯的重責大任(?)的。

becco 提到...

或許有人還沒看過這篇1993年著名的食評,新官上任的nyt食評 Ruth Reichl 把當時紐約最有名的餐廳Le Cirque降星,原因也是因為服務大小眼 (most likely),很精采的文章

http://personals.nymag.com/blog/4399/post_74915.html?dcb=personals.nymag.com

http://personals.mentalfloss.com/blog/4399/post_74914.html?dcb=personals.mentalfloss.com&highid=3767225_50077

Starberry 提到...

Becco,

whoa! Such a long discussion chain!

I think there are a couple different issues here

1) Bias induced by price
A fellow foodie and I were discussing the impact of how price causes bias in our assessment of a place in the sense that we tend to judge places more harshly because of a high price.

For example, someone might be inclined to give a place 3/5 on Yelp had the meal been $25, but instead he gave 2/5 because the meal was $60. That is of course, the wrong way to judge. A 3/5 is a 3/5, and people can be their own judge as to if it's worth the $60 price tag.

In the review of Masa, I kind of sensed the same thing, where I sensed a part of why the downgrade happened was due to the "It's not worth it factor." Well, a more fair way to review is to give it the 4* and let people decide if it's worth the price tag. They might very well be like me and conclude that it's not worth it, but that shouldn't diminish the score it receives.

b) The flaw of the NYT scoring system.
I always felt that the NYT scoring system is not detailed/refined enough, since it can really only give out 4 scores. It's like, yeah, there are 4 star restaurants, and then there are FOUR STAR restaurants. It's like, Del Posto is a nice place, but it's not Per Se right? Well, in NYT, they have the same score.

They really need to move to a Zagat like system where you get more categories, and a finer scoring scale. Because maybe Masa isn't a FOUR STAR restaurant, it's probably still a four star restaurant?

Cheers,

Wilson

P.S.: I do think the downgrade is made a bigger deal than it really is. In the sense that, I don't know of anyone who uses the NYT score in their decision making process. The influence it wields over the dining public has definitely waned over the years.

Rich 提到...

Becco,

I feel similarly that very few people would stop going to a restaurant simply because NYT gives it a bad rating. However, for a tourist like myself, guides such as NYT or Michelin can generate an irresistible buzz. For example, last time I went to New York, I planned for one fine-dining Italian meal. I personally find the Zagat guide rather difficult to navigate, and I ended up relying upon my knowledge from the Michelin Guide and reviews I read from NYT. I eventually picked Del Posto because of the glowing review from Sam Sifton. I understand that such is probably not the practice of local New Yorkers, as I rarely rely on guides to pick out a place in Chicago. But NYT does have its influence in certain ways.

Going back to the dessert discussion I failed to follow up (hectic couple of weeks orz...), I guess, alas, I am a bit Americanized when it comes to it. I love French pastries and desserts. I almost always order desserts when I eat at French restaurants. I can't resist seeing items like opera cake, gateau basque, mille fuille, or souffle on the menu. I will also drive an hour just to get good macarons or caneles (I've probably tried most places in the Chicagoland area that offer such items). But this is more of an intellectual, consciously curious interest. On the other hand, although I rarely order desserts at American restaurants, I often crave a good slice of cheesecake or apple-pie a la mode. This craving is more like an addiction rather than an intellectual pursuit. I have to have it the minute I crave it - I don't think I can live somewhere where you'd have to drive more than 30 min. for such simple treats. In terms of Italian desserts, I tend to agree with you that they are more comforting than interesting. Though I recently had quite a fond dessert experience at Del Posto - probably the most interesting desserts I've had at an Italian restaurant in the US.

Rich 提到...

Just realized that I was responding in-part a comment by Wilson rather than Becco.

Apologizes. And greetings to Wilson.

Rich 提到...

Came back to check comments and realized the severe dyslexia in my last message. I swear I was not under the influence XD

becco 提到...

好多留言,一次回覆。

Wilson,

Welcome to the party :)

我同意你說的,價錢是一個因素,文章裡也說了。不過我好奇Masa是何時調漲到目前這個水準的。上個月去per se,驚覺他的價錢比我06年去時高了30%,比在FL吃還貴! 但我不覺得這幾年紐約其他餐廳有這般的漲幅啊,另一個例外就是Masa了,難道是他們這兩家餐廳所在的Times Warner Center租金漲了嗎 XD

要不就真的是所謂m型化了…只是Daniel, Jean George、Le Bernardin都還是維持差不多價錢啊。

again,我沒吃過MASA,所以食物本身究竟值不值這價錢我不曉得,紐約時報的標準到底在哪裡一向沒人知道,當年Le Cirque也是因為服務被Ruth Reichl嫌而掉星的,但到底佔了多大比重呢?

米其林指南好像從2008年起就給MASA三星直到今天,輪胎人開宗明義說他們只看食物,我懷疑能執行的多徹底啦,但這幾年觀察下來,還算是 consistent。

其實,除了真正去MASA吃一餐,我目前已經沒有辦法再討論這個事件了。不過,假設masa的服務的確就像Sam Sifton形容的那樣,姑且不論是傳統還是不到位,但食物有銀座一流壽司店例如水谷或新橋Shimizu的水準,紐約時報還是維持原判嗎?我會猜是的。

紐約時報時評的影響力究竟有多大其實我也說不上來,畢竟我只是一個Bostonian,我們都是週末去吃Manhattanite weekday吃剩下的,嗚嗚。但我不意外他的影響力已經不如當年RR時代,一流餐廳會把西班牙國王晾在酒吧,先去招呼來自NYT的大牌食評,或者是紐約四星名廚到食評家位在康乃迪克的廚房做生日宴那樣子,畢竟是百家爭鳴的時代,不過總的來說,我覺得這還是好事。

不過我記得米其林指南剛進來時,許多人紐約不看好輪胎人,宣稱他們信賴的是在地的紐時食評,不曉得現在情形有沒有變,還是大家都去相信yelp了 …

Rich,

我可以体會你形容的那種對於甜點的感覺,就像我愛吃喜年來蛋捲或黑師傅一樣吧。

蘋果派(即使是麥當勞的)、cheese cake這些我都喜歡,donut 更是我的最愛,即使我一點都不覺得自己Americanized (and never will be, I hope),也即使我沒有要天天吃opera或millefeuille或者macaron (but why not?),但是知道你身處的這片大地上有那樣美好的甜點存在著,在某一個角落每天準時熱呼呼、甜蜜蜜地出爐,香氣四溢著,即使我可能一個月才享用得到一次,在心裡上都是很美好的。

可是,

美.國.並.沒.有.啊.幹!

這對我來說不是intellectual,而是非常emotional的事情,唉。

iris 提到...

很久以前去過一個dessert bar 在第九大道上,忘了是什麼名字,可是賣的是日系的法式甜點,很不錯。最近一期的food&wine 有morimoto 示範捲壽司,老實說看來很不整齊,我有懷疑那也許不是他本人作的。不過去過他的餐廳,我覺得也還好,也許是我不能接受新派的壽司吧,服務也還不錯。我倒是同意在fine dining 上服務也應該要被計算進去。用餐氣氛不對,東西也會變難吃吧!

becco 提到...

第九大道的話那就不會是Lady M 了,這家也是日式的,我覺得相當好吃。

iris 提到...

我知道lady m, 不過一直沒到訪。不過有小道消息,日式燒肉店Gyo Kaku 的千層綠茶蛋糕是他們家的。這個我就有吃過了,不過不是非常impressive.
還是覺得九大道那家比較驚艷。

becco 提到...

好像一風堂也是用他家的。

iris 提到...

想起來了, 是Kyotofu!!!去yelp一下吧!

becco 提到...

好的,感謝您!

Nana 提到...

Hi Becco,

今天第一次來到你的blog,真的是如獲至寶!!!

我和老公住在紐約也是超愛吃美食的 (只是常常找不到跟我們一起去的飯友 =p)

米其林西餐我們很喜歡Eleven Madison & Daniel. Bouley的新店也很漂亮好吃(唯一可惜的是tasting menu很少換!),

壽司店我們跟Eric一樣愛15 East! 然後很喜歡Jewel Bako和另外有一家, 並不是很有名但我們很愛的Kanoyama (一定要提早訂老闆的super omakase)

(這幾家都一定要坐吧台!!!)

點心喜歡Lady M, 然後在10st (1st&2nd Ave)有家chikalicious(雖然service有點怪),9 st (2nd & 3rd)有茶庵, 都很不錯! =)

另外一提請不要去Momofuku Ko...我們去年去過一次非常失望=(((((

Nana

becco 提到...

Hi Nana,

觀迎你來,至寶說不上來,偶爾耍耍寶自娛娛人罷了。

EMP 我現在也滿喜歡的,Daniel一直是我的最愛之一,Bouley我只吃過午餐,感覺David Bouley先生這幾年有點欲振乏力就是了。對了,他的Brush stroke你們吃過了嗎?

15 East我還沒機會吃咧(我不住紐約),但舍妹很喜愛,去到跟老闆都熟了。JB聞名已經,另一家我好像常經過,原來這麼有來頭。

我也非常喜歡Lady M,你說的另兩家還沒機會去。

唉,紐約真好啊。

Nana 提到...

沒有去過Brush stroke耶...看到你的推薦我現在好想去! <3 <3

我想我很喜歡Bouley的原因之一是裝潢好漂亮(天花板的設計也很特別),還有送給客人的水果蛋糕...我覺得我很容易就被小事情討好 =p

becco 提到...

且慢!

我沒有吃過brushstroke 啦,是我妹去過,她說還不錯,不敢隨便推薦。

匿名 提到...

借用一下空間 請問nana 你的部落格裡提到的法拉盛地下室按摩店在哪裡?
我也想去 謝謝

Nana 提到...

To 匿名- 我回在我的blog囉. 你去看一下吧 =)

http://nadiary.blogspot.com/2011/12/12.html?showComment=1335233629864#c6867700697809247622"

Becco-下次來紐約跟我們一起吃飯吧! =)))