2011年5月10日 星期二

料理奧斯卡

“All you have to do is open a can of sardines and a box of Triscuits, call it a signature dish, and you get Best Chef New York City.” 這是今年James Beard Award 紐約最佳廚師得主,Prune 的主廚/老闆Gabrielle Hamilton 的得獎感言。

雖然早就聽說他是女版的安登尼波登,但這樣講話太.欠.揍.了.吧,尤其當他的對手是April Bloomfield (spotted pig, te Breslin), Wylie Dufresne (WD50), Michael Anthony (我不認識)and Michael White (Alto, Convivo, Marea,前兩者已關)的時候。

聽人說JBA是料理奧斯卡,本來以為是媒体亂講,但想一想覺得有理,畢竟他是以美國為中心關起門來自己玩,且由五、六百位會員投票決定給獎,真的跟影藝學院那個獎有像。

那相較之下,稱法國(甚至歐洲)米其林三星為料理界的諾貝爾,好像也不算太過份。



今年的Best Chef頒給Jose Andres,我很滿意。


只能 commment 一些我知道的。Jose Andres 拿到全美年度最佳廚師,我只吃過他的 Tapas,很好,但他拿獎應該是憑mini bar,只是從側面看來他的分子廚藝似乎沒有擺脫 Ferran Adria 的路數(這年頭誰還用液態氮啊,該換液氦來做superconducting ultra smooth 鵝肝醬了),就創意與格局上似乎還不如Alinea與WD50,但或許味道比較好?

最佳新餐廳給JG的ABC Kitchen,小弟對JG一向沒有好感,這家又標謗健康有機local什麼的嚇人玩意兒,所以沒什麼好說。

最佳餐廳得主是Eleven Madison Park,嗯,上次去吃覺得味道少了點火花與個性,東西很漂亮,用上一大堆真空烹調的手法,再次証明在料理中,技術並不是最重要的。這家餐廳被紐約媒体一致給予最高評價,但米其林只給他一星,讓我再一次決定擁抱歐州價值。不過總之,Daniel Humm看來是很有潛力的,我期待他更上一層樓。

per se拿到最佳服務,完全沒有話說,他是我所嚐過的美國餐廳裡唯一具有三星級服務水準的。

東北最佳廚師是 Craigie on Maine 的主廚東尼‧毛,實至名歸。大波士頓最值得吃的餐廳之一。

紐約最佳廚師是文章開頭那位,這半年看來有跡可尋,出新書,忽然頻繁起來的報紙訪問等等,但我有一次在等 Brunch 位子時看來其他客人盤裡的菜,就決定不等了… 下次去嚐晚餐看看吧。

終身成就獎頒給Kevin Zraly,他是前WTC頂樓那間Windows of the World 餐廳的侍酒師,該餐廳的藏酒曾經是全美最好的之一(凱達組織的罪狀再添一筆),他對此貢獻極大,此外還出版各種葡萄酒教學與推廣的書籍和教材,他的「葡萄酒入門」是我的啟蒙讀物,今天看仍覺得是第一流的。

就算賓拉登今天還活著,他仍值得這個獎。

The complete list of awards:

Best New Restaurant
ABC Kitchen, New York City; Chef/Owner: Jean-Georges Vongerichten; Owner: Phil Suarez

Outstanding Chef Award
José Andrés, minibar, Washington, D.C.

Outstanding Pastry Chef Award
Angela Pinkerton, Eleven Madison Park, New York City

Outstanding Restaurant Award
Eleven Madison Park, New York City; Owner: Danny Meyer

Outstanding Restaurateur Award
Richard Melman, Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, Chicago

Outstanding Service Award
Per Se, New York City, Chef/Owner: Thomas Keller

Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional Award
Julian P. Van Winkle, III; Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery, Louisville

Outstanding Wine Service Award
The Modern, New York City; Wine Director: Belinda Chang

Rising Star Chef of the Year Award
Gabriel Rucker, Le Pigeon, Portland, Ore.

Best Chef: Great Lakes (Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Ohio)
Alex Young, Zingerman’s Roadhouse, Ann Arbor, Mich.

Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic (Washington, D.C., Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Virginia)
Michael Solomonov, Zahav, Philadelphia

Best Chef: Midwest (Iowa, Kansas, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, North Dakota, South Dakota, Wisconsin)
Isaac Becker, 112 Eatery, Minneapolis

Best Chef: New York City
Gabrielle Hamilton, Prune, New York City

Best Chef: Northeast (Connecticut, Massachusetts, Maine, New Hampshire, New York excluding the five boroughs of New York City, Rhode Island, Vermont)
Tony Maws, Craigie On Main, Cambridge, Mass.

Best Chef: Northwest (Alaska, Idaho, Montana, Oregon, Washington, Wyoming)
Andy Ricker, Pok Pok, Portland, Ore.

Best Chef: Pacific (California, Hawaii)
Michael Tusk, Quince, San Francisco

Best Chef: South (Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi)
Stephen Stryjewski, Cochon, New Orleans

Best Chef: Southeast (Georgia, Kentucky, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, West Virginia)
Andrea Reusing, Lantern, Chapel Hill, N.C.

Best Chef: Southwest (Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Nevada, Oklahoma, Texas, Utah)
Saipin Chutima, Lotus of Siam, Las Vegas, and Tyson Cole, Uchi, Austin, Tex. (tie)

Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America Inductees
Jonathan Gold, Writer, LA Weekly, Los Angeles
Lee Jones, Farmer/ Owner, Chef’s Garden, Huron, Ohio
Charles Phan, Chef/Owner, The Slanted Door, San Francisco
Frank Stitt, Chef/Owner, Highlands Bar and Grill, Birmingham, Ala.
Nick Valenti, CEO, Patina Restaurant Group, New York City

America’s Classics Awards
Chef Vola’s, Atlantic City, N.J.; Owners: Louise Esposito, Michael Esposito, Michael Esposito Jr., Louis Esposito
Crook’s Corner, Chapel Hill, NC; Owner: Gene Hamer
Noriega Restaurant and Hotel, Bakersfield, Calif., Owners: Linda Elizalde McCoy and Rochelle Ladd
Le Veau d’Or, New York City; Owner: Robert Tréboux
Watts Tea Shop, Milwaukee; President and CEO: Sam Watts

Lifetime Achievement Award
Kevin Zraly

Humanitarian of the Year
FareStart

4 則留言:

Rich 提到...

雖然沒有去年離譜, 但貌似仍是個紐約餐飲界的生日派對.

becco 提到...

很難不是啊,因為是五、六百人投票的。

Rich 提到...

Best New Restaurant category 由其讓人匪夷所思. 前年 Momofuku Ko 打敗 L2O 我就覺得奇怪; 去年 Marea 是 okay 的. 但是今年 ABC 打敗 Benu 說得過去嗎?

becco 提到...

我也不曉得,不過這種東西看看笑笑就算了,至少不會比那個賣礦泉水的世界五十大荒謬可笑。

奧斯卡嘛,又不是諾貝爾獎…